Belgrade – Land of Party, Honey and Hearts

Mix of Balkan blood and European spirit, stubborn mentality, friendly people, beautiful girls, unique mixture of new and old, atmosphere that will leave you begging for more but mostly open-hearted city waiting for you to leave your mark in its streets and boulevards. Belgrade is truly at the crossroads of cultures, something between Turkey and Austria, somewhere between dirty and plain beautiful. Wars that plagued our region left many influences on the city itself, architecture is amazing and landscape is begging for you to enjoy it. Two rivers intersect the city with many beautiful parks and playgrounds. City was destroyed, rebuilt and now it’s getting larger every day. It’s the capital city of artists, whores, musicians, students, politicians, and everyone who feels at least a bit crazy and out of ordinary. Truly a Sin City in its best meaning, captivating by its history which was rough but which also made people of Belgrade especially hospitable and friendly. It’s a city where you’ll feel instantly like part of the big family. 

My suggestion: Wake up early (7:30 AM is perfect), you’ll still see people with huge trucks washing streets with hoses, you’ll feel a smell of fresh air filled with a smell of perfume from girls that were going back home alone last night from a big party carrying their high heels in the hands, smell of local boys fighting over those girls, mixed all together with smell of local bakeries (possibly Toma bakery – great stuff people – when I tell you), fresh Turkish coffee, cakes and sweet shops, brandy (rakija), freshly-washed clothes and smell of morning rush, cars, and a nearby church. Go directly (walk if possible – if not take a tram, it’s a unique experience) to river Danube or Sava, visit green market in Zemun, take hot bagels from bakery, hand-made yoghurt and just keep on walking by the river. I’ll leave the rest for your imagination. Best view of Belgrade is from its rivers – Kalemegdan, Branko’s bridge, old town…

Things you can’t miss in Belgrade (no special order):  Kalemegdan,  Balkanska street, Knez Mihailo  street, New Belgrade blocks of more and more streets, Students’ cultural center (SKC) – for everyone who feels a bit young – lots of great concerts and performances, Ada Ciganlija lake for all sport-loving-jogging-biking people, football game between Red Star and Partizan (passion at its highest), Slavija Square – I never figure out how cars get around it, pedestrian passage at Zeleni Venac (Green Circle) – you’ll meet someone you know there for sure, even if it’s your first time in Belgrade, Underground station at Vuk monument, Kosutnjak –huge park and ski path, Ethnological museum, go out please please – if it’s a summer time – boats (splavs) are great, amazing way to meet a boy/girl/two girls/two boys – whatever you like, in winter there is a club Tube, Plastic and many others. When I am in this great mood of clubbing – please make sure you do visit some religious places – Saint Sava Temple, and Saint Marko’s Church. You’ll have the best time of your life guaranteed. Gradic Pejton  – great place for crafts, House of Flowers/Tito Memorial, Palace of Kneginja Lubica and many other places. If nothing, just fix your damn teeth – it’s cheap in Belgrade and of the greatest quality, eat a pljeskavica (beef patty), best pop corn @Pecina, best coffee and plazma (cookie) shake @Cofee Dream, drink a cheap beer or rakija, go to a pub or a Sillicon Valley and get a girl there. You’ll end up on Avala mountain anyways, drunk, disoriented and ready to go back home to your country, or maybe not. You’ll have the best view from there.

How can you see most of this – for not so much money: Just take a tram number 2, it’s the best unguided tour of the city for sure. It’s going through the heart of the City and much more.  Other solution is the cab ride – but it might cost you a little more but you’ll have a great conversation about politics, culture and everyday life in Belgrade. When I think of it, get into cab, you’ll learn more about Belgrade spirit. 

I was born there, spent some of my childhood, fell in love with my first girl from primary school – first grade, had huge break-ups, smiles, tears, hugs and more smiles. It’s a city that will amaze you by its nonchalance and surprise you by its beauty. It’s a small corner of Europe that is still undiscovered and really a pearl of Balkans. You can call it “no man’s land” – I call it “crazy man’s land with a big heart”. 

It’s probably only city in the world that made me come back to it three times so far in my life. I am again away from it, but who knows?  Μaybe it will bring me back again...

S E R B I A